Well as of Today I now have my Datsun running on a '7749 with $59.

A few glitches to start off with like wiring the fuel pump output as a negitive trigger. :oops: That's now sorted out.

I had a plug that was closed up for some reason, that helped smooth out the idle a little bit.

I'm having a bit of an issue with free rev decel. Most of the time it doesn't stall, and never stalls when only reving about 1000 RPM off idle (idle is approx 1000 to 1100 right now), but it stalls more often than not when free reving a few thousand RPM. I've made some progress on that it seems by reducing a few decel parameters, IIRC MAP delta, Throttle contribution vs throttle change and increased upper and lower decel limits. It's still stalling much more than I would like, but it's a little better and think that maybe I should start looking elsewhere at this point, just not sure exactly where. increasing the VE table in the lower RPM and MAP areas also seemed to help.

I have a coolant leak that I need to fix, seems to be from the thermostat housing itself, possibly cracked.

So far I'm pretty happy, the car hasn't ran in about 3 months, and now is running on EFI and turbo, with some help from code59.

Specs:
1973 Datsun 240Z
1981 or 82 280ZX 2.8L I6 (don't know exact year, this is as tracked down as I can get since the engine came already installed in the car.)
280Z (N42) EFI intake, smoothed and very minimally worked ports.
280ZXT exhaust manifold
GM 6.5 Diesel Borg Warner turbo.
30 lbs/hr injectors from a Ford Supercoupe
Non-intercooled (haven't had time to make the IC yet)
3400 56mm TB
Electronic 280Z dizzy (will be changing to DIS in the winter)


Will post pictures when I get a chance, I'm actually sitting in the car right now typing this.

To update I have driven the car a few miles now, and it seems to love fuel being thrown at it.

Currently only about 2 PSI, I haven't payed much attention to the boost gauge in throttle down situations, mostly just cruise and idle vac. I know the actuator has a 2 PSI spring in it, so it shouldn't go much above that right now, I might have it set a bit tight too. *whistles*

The car just pulls, I'm trying to aleviate some knock right now, it spiked up to over 18 degrees retard a couple times. hock: I've since added more fuel and pulled the timing back, I need to play with the dizzy itself when I get a chance, so I can make sure what I'm seeing on the screen matches what is happening at the engine. Dizzy will be swapped out to DIS in the winter.

I've been fighting a fuel leak for the last 3 days, on the return line, where the braided attached to the original feed line, that now serves as the return, it was only 5/16". The compression adaptor I had on there didn't seal, and so I removed it and did a mickey mouse repair just to get me to Zfest tomorrow with the car. I also have a coolant leak, but it seems fairly slow and I can add water/coolant pretty easy, it's also not going to cause a fire if it leaks.

So far, I'm happy with it, it's great to be driving the 240 again, it's been far too long, and now any changes can be done without disabling the car for an extended period of time. First this is an intercooler, once I fix the cuple leaks I have.

good to see you got it running man.

Thanks man, I should have some good pictures later today, I plan to take some pictures of it at some point.

I spun the dizzy forward yesterday before leaving Z-Fest (Datsun/Nissan Z car line show), and that seemed to pull almost all of the knock I was getting out of it, and I see I'm getting about 3.5 PSIG of boost. hehehe

The car just flies, and wants to just about rip the tires off the car now, I can't wait for double digit boost levels,

It is fun to see this ecm being used on engines not ever intended or thought about. Even better to see that use being successful.

That's cool... I love the odd-ball applications. If it can work there, it can pretty much work anywhere.

Pics, por favor.

Dig

QUOTE:
Originally posted by Six_Shooter

Thanks man, I should have some good pictures later today, I plan to take some pictures of it at some point.

I spun the dizzy forward yesterday before leaving Z-Fest (Datsun/Nissan Z car line show), and that seemed to pull almost all of the knock I was getting out of it, and I see I'm getting about 3.5 PSIG of boost. hehehe

The car just flies, and wants to just about rip the tires off the car now, I can't wait for double digit boost levels, :D

very cool man.. love to see some pics.

where was this z meet? i have two friends that are really into nissans, one 240s and the other 350z but they all love the older ones too.


i've been meaning to go up to the deals gap z meet with them one year, looks like fun.

I'll post some pictures soon, I've just been relaxing tonight on the couch, surfing and watching some TV.

Z-Fest is a meet put on annualy by the OZC, Ontario Z Car club of Ontario. http://ontariozcar.com/ It's held at Christie Lake Conservation Area, just outside of Dundas Ontario. Are you friends HybridZ members?

I have a question on tuning with $59, there's an area that I'm not sure how to tune properly right now.

I've been looking at the spark tables, and noticed that the lowest MAP value is 37 KPA, my car idles at 32 to 34 KPA according to Scanner Pro (About 22 in/hg according to my Autometer vac/boost gauge).
So does this mean that the ECM will use the lowest value at 37 KPA vs RPM for anything below that MAP value?

I only had a chance to make some small changes today, and no real change, other than a bin that the car didn't like for idle.

I'm really trying to get this tuned pretty well over the next few days, as I would like to drive it to a party which is about 3 hours away, and then to the (GF's) cottage which is about an hour past that, after the party (Don't worry no drinking and driving for me). I figure would also be a good opprotunity to do some highway/milage tuning as well.

Here are a few pictures:

The car:


The engine:

I plan to change quite a few things about the set-up. A lot of it was to just get it running for Z-fest yesterday.

The biggets change that I am planning that I think will help quite a lot is the air filter location, I'm sure pulling hot air off that exhaust manifold isn't helping with the knock.

I also plan to change to DIS, I just didn't have time to modify the trigget wheel that I have or make the sensor mount.

I'm also hoping to have the IC built and installed within the next month, as there is a tentative dyno day coming up at a local speed shop.